Ken Forkish’s Pizza Dough Made From “Extra” Levain Starter

If you’re new to the pizza or baking game, you might not be familiar with the concept of a levain starter, nor think it has anything to do with pizza. But for Hawaii-based New York Times bestseller and chef Ken Forkish, incorporating a levain – an offshoot of a mature sourdough starter – into pizza dough does wonders to enhance its taste and aroma. All you need is flour, water, and time for the ingredients to incorporate the wild yeasts in the air and ferment before it's added to the dough for extra tasty results.

As the author of “Evolutions in Bread,” “The Elements of Pizza” and “Flour Water Salt Yeast,” which won both James Beard and IACP awards, we trust Ken’s methods. And if his recipe writing expertise weren’t enough, he’s also the founder of Ken’s Artisan Bakery and Ken’s Artisan Pizza, the latter of which was named one of the best in the country by 50 Top Pizza in 2022.

This recipe requires more time and planning than Ken’s “I Slept in But I Want Pizza Tonight” Dough, but trust us: it’s well worth it. A little effort goes a long way, and as Ken writes in “Flour Water Salt Yeast,” “You too can enjoy the pleasure that begins with a leap of faith and ends with figuring out what to do with the culture once it’s active.” Get ready for a pie with a greater depth of flavour that will have you (and your guests) clamouring for more.

Reprinted with permission from The Elements of Pizza by Ken Forkish, copyright © 2016. Published by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of Penguin Random House LLC.

Note

This recipe takes time. Before you start cooking, you’ll need a levain, which you can make the night before cooking if you have an active, mature sourdough starter that’s ready to go. (If you’re not up for making a starter from scratch, you can buy one online or your favourite local bakery may be willing to share a bit of theirs.) To make a levain, you’ll need: a heaping 80 grams of your starter, 160 grams of strong white “00” flour and 160 grams of lukewarm water for a total of 400 grams with a 50 % hydration. We’ve slightly modified this recipe from Ken’s original to get a hydration of 64 %, rather than 67 %. For the other ingredients, the percentages are as follows: strong white bread (“00”) or pizza flour (100 %), fine sea salt (2.7 %), and active extra levain starter (38 %).