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When we think of pizza, we almost always think of tomatoes, and for good reason – they’re often used to make a classic pizza sauce that’s ladled over dough. The beauty of a sauce is that the tomatoes often come from a can (such as San Marzano), which means you can have it any time of the year. But sometimes, fresh and seasonal varieties make all the difference.
Case in point: Each summer, chef, award-winning food writer and teacher Gill Meller grows several varieties of tomatoes in his greenhouse at his home in the Southwest of England. And as an outdoor enthusiast and author of “Outside: Cooking Outdoors - Recipes for the Wild” it makes sense that those tomatoes would make their way onto a pizza.
In this slow-roasted tomato and garlic pizza, instead of making a sauce, Gill opts to gently roast tomatoes in the low heat of an Ooni to maximize their sweetness and flavour. They’re then scattered over the pizza’s base, giving diners the best of both worlds – a rich, deep tomato flavour and a wonderful combination of textures.
When it comes to the garlic, Gill suggests placing the whole bulbs in the oven – this roasting method softens the sugary flesh of the bulbs as well as mellows out its pungent taste. When it’s done, the garlic pulp can easily be squeezed from the papery skins and used in all sorts of recipes.
The roasted tomatoes and garlic pair nicely with mozzarella, aged white cheddar and fresh thyme, and for an extra dash of flavour, Gill adds marjoram. Related to oregano, marjoram has floral notes and is more delicate and slightly sweeter (though the former can work in a pinch!).
While this might seem like a whole lot of work for a simple pizza, don’t worry: It’s no more time-consuming than making a traditional tomato sauce. Simple, fresh, rustic and tasty, you’ll never look at tomatoes (or garlic) in the same way.
Four 12-inch (30-centimetre) pizzas
1 hour
(not including dough prep time)1 to 2 minutes
By Gill Meller
Note
Try to keep the oven temperature relatively low. You want to reduce the tomatoes’ moisture a bit so they don’t cause a soggy base. For the pizza dough, we recommend our Classic Pizza Dough recipe (just be sure to set aside 3 to 4 hours for proofing before cooking). If you don't have a greenhouse, you can visit your local farmer’s market for heirloom tomatoes of mixed sizes, colors and shapes for even more visual appeal.
Gill Meller
Gill Meller is a UK-based chef, award-winning food writer, food stylist and cookery teacher. Gill works closely with chef Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and River Cottage, and appears regularly on the celebrated Channel 4 series. A contributor to the Observer, Guardian, Waitrose Food, Telegraph and Country Living to name a few, Gill’s recipe column can be found in the award-winning delicious. magazine every month. Gill's first book, Gather (2016), won the Fortnum & Mason Award for Best Debut Food Book, and both Time (2018) and Root, Stem, Leaf, Flower (2020) were nominated for the Guild of Food Writers’ Cookbook of the Year. He is also the author of the River Cottage Handbook on Outdoor Cooking and, more recently, Outside: Cooking Outdoors - Recipes for the Wild (2022).
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